Indonesian Coffee

Indonesian coffee comes from a string of volcanic islands — Sumatra above all, with Gayo in Aceh, Lintong near Lake Toba and Kerinci in Jambi, then Java, Bali, Sulawesi and Flores — grown on smallholder plots between about 1,000 and 1,700 metres. The traditional cup is shaped by wet hulling, the local method of milling the coffee while it is still damp, which gives the heavy body, low acidity and earthy, spiced, dark-chocolate character the islands are known for.

A newer generation of producer groups is changing that picture, taking control of their own processing and working with washed, honey and anaerobic methods that bring out fruit, florals and sweetness the old style hid. The result is coffee that still has the weight Indonesia is famous for, with far more clarity on top: a rich, textured espresso, and a filter cup with real character.